By this time our taxi-drivers, Shem and Lansum had found us, after buying some toothbrushes and water we set off (about two hours late) for Lowani. We saw the usual Malawian road-side sites, kids selling roasted mice on sticks, overloaded push bikes being used to transport 10 foot high stacks of all sorts of things, dodgy driving and a combination of suicidal people, goats and chickens. Since we were running so late, the sun went down as we reached the lagoon. We’d already passed through Salima which is a fair-sized town before sunset and headed on towards Nkhotakota in the hopes that it would still be daylight when we got there and some shops might be open for those of us without luggage to buy a change of clothes. Alas, it wasn’t to be and although we got out and had a look around, there were none (or nothing decent) to be had.
Sunset over the lagoon.
Eventually, then we decided to cut our losses and just head for Lowani, with a plan to try either Kande on the Sunday or possibly Chintheche market on the Monday. We finally arrived at Lowani at about 8.30, had some food and pretty much went to bed. After a family crisis in the middle of the night, we ended up having to say goodbye to one of the team who was forced to fly back to the UK as soon as they could, unfortunately, the morning after they had arrived.